An Experimental and Numerical Study of Long Wave Run-Up on a Plane Beach

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Drähne, Ulrike; Goseberg, Nils; Vater, Stefan; Beisiegel, Nicole; Behrens, Jörn: An Experimental and Numerical Study of Long Wave Run-Up on a Plane Beach. In: Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 4 (2016), Nr. 1, 1. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse4010001

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To cite the version in the repository, please use this identifier: https://doi.org/10.15488/1552

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Sum total of downloads: 177




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Abstract: 
This research is to facilitate the current understanding of long wave dynamics at coasts and during on-land propagation, experimental and numerical approaches are compared against existing analytical expressions for the long wave run-up. Leading depression sinusoidal waves are chosen to model these dynamics. The experimental study was conducted using a new pump-driven wave generator and the numerical experiments were carried out with a one-dimensional discontinuous Galerkin non-linear shallow water model. The numerical model is able to accurately reproduce the run-up elevation and velocities predicted by the theoretical expressions. Depending on the surf similarity of the generated waves and due to imperfections of the experimental wave generation, riding waves are observed in the experimental results. These artifacts can also be confirmed in the numerical study when the data from the physical experiments is assimilated. Qualitatively, scale effects associated with the experimental setting are discussed. Finally, shoreline velocities, run-up and run-down are determined and shown to largely agree with analytical predictions.
License of this version: CC BY 4.0 Unported
Document Type: Article
Publishing status: publishedVersion
Issue Date: 2016
Appears in Collections:Fakultät für Bauingenieurwesen und Geodäsie

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pos. country downloads
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1 image of flag of Germany Germany 129 72.88%
2 image of flag of United States United States 27 15.25%
3 image of flag of China China 13 7.34%
4 image of flag of Belgium Belgium 2 1.13%
5 image of flag of Vietnam Vietnam 1 0.56%
6 image of flag of Taiwan Taiwan 1 0.56%
7 image of flag of Russian Federation Russian Federation 1 0.56%
8 image of flag of Japan Japan 1 0.56%
9 image of flag of Spain Spain 1 0.56%
10 image of flag of Bulgaria Bulgaria 1 0.56%

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